Ichioku

The sound of "tuna shogayaki" suggests something unusual, and the execution goes well beyond ordinary seafood fare. As the signature creation of Ichioku in Roppongi, this dish is robustly seasoned to eliminate any fishiness, delivering a rich, tender texture that eats almost like meat. It pairs naturally with drinks in the evening and is also served at lunchtime layered over rice as the Maguro Shogayaki Don lunch set.

For an opening appetizer, the Original Tofu Steak is a long-standing fixture. A sauce blending dashi gently brewed from Rausu kombu and bonito flakes with house soy sauce and chili oil brings out the smooth savor of the tofu. Other inventive starters include Western-style gyoza, pairing crispy fried wonton wrappers with melted cheese, and oil-sautéed eggplant finished with the fragrant combination of fermented butter, soy sauce, and a squeeze of tart lemon.

Seasonal seasoned rice (takikomi gohan) rounds out the meal. Options steeped in oceanic flavor include oyster rice (kaki-meshi), a long-cherished autumn and winter favorite, along with clam rice (hamaguri-meshi) in spring and summer, and bright salmon roe rice (ikura-meshi). For dessert, the firm, traditional house-made custard pudding is a popular finish.

Softly lit with an Asian-inspired, retro warmth, the dining room provides a comfortable backdrop for a relaxed meal. Paired with beer or wine, the menu offers a leisurely taste of the creative cuisine that has sustained Ichioku in Roppongi for decades.